Sherry Week is traditionally a time when wine lovers worldwide celebrate the complexity, history, and depth of the fortified and oxidative wines of Andalusia. These nectars, often aged for decades, remind us of the importance of meditation wines—those savored slowly, far from the hustle and bustle.
While Spain holds the monopoly on Sherry, Italy, rich in its viticultural diversity, possesses its own treasures that embody this philosophy of patience and focus. We cross the Alps to stop in Trentino, an alpine region where elegance and tradition meet. It is here, in the heart of the Valle dei Laghi, that Vino Santo Trentino DOC is born—a sweet wine whose rarity and longevity rival the world’s greatest sweet wines, offering a sublime Italian alternative for this season of contemplation.
Region Focus: Trentino DOC Vino Santo (Valle dei Laghi)
Trentino, nestled between the majestic Dolomites and glacial lakes, is a land of contrasts. Although famous for its Trentodoc sparkling wines, the region also harbors ancient winemaking traditions, including that of Vino Santo. It is not a fortified wine like Sherry, but its production method, extremely long aging, and oxidative profile give it a similar complexity, placing it squarely in the category of meditation wines.
The specific appellation governing this jewel is Trentino DOC Vino Santo, and its production area is strictly limited to the Valle dei Laghi (Valley of the Lakes), north of Lake Garda.
Terroir and Grape Varieties
The secret of Vino Santo lies in its unique grape variety and exceptional microclimate.
The exclusive grape variety is Nosiola, a white variety indigenous to Trentino. Nosiola is naturally acidic and aromatic, but it has thin skin, making it ideal for the appassimento (drying) process.
The terroir of the Valle dei Laghi is crucial. The proximity of Lake Garda creates a temperate microclimate and, crucially, generates a regular wind called the « Ora. » This wind is essential because it allows for slow and steady drying of the bunches. After harvest, the grapes are laid out on racks (called arèle) in well-ventilated lofts. This drying lasts five to six months, until Holy Week, allowing the grapes to lose up to 80% of their water and concentrate sugars and aromas.
Wine Style and Flagship Appellation
Vino Santo Trentino DOC is the archetype of patience. The pressing of the dried grapes takes place in the spring, producing an extremely dense and sweet must. Fermentation is incredibly slow, sometimes lasting up to four years, due to the high sugar concentration.
But it is the aging that defines this wine. Vino Santo must age for a minimum of three years in oak barrels, but the best producers often extend this period to 10, 15, or even 20 years. This long contact with wood and slow oxidation gives the wine its deep amber color, complex tertiary notes, and syrupy texture.
The aromatic profile is dominated by acacia honey, dried fruits (figs, dates, apricots), sweet spices, tobacco, and a hint of toasted hazelnut, recalling the depth of certain Olorosos or Madeiras. It is a sweet wine, but always balanced by a vibrant acidity inherited from the Nosiola.
Suggested Food and Wine Pairings
Vino Santo is a wine that stands alone, but it excels with regional pairings or intense desserts:
1. Zelten: Trentino’s traditional fruit bread, rich in walnuts, almonds, and candied fruits.
2. Aged Cheeses: A classic pairing with very old Parmesan Reggiano (40 months) or Grana Trentino, where the wine’s sweetness contrasts with the cheese’s salt and umami.
3. Dark Chocolate: Dark chocolate with a high cocoa content (70%+) or coffee-based desserts.
Official Region Link
To learn more about Trentino wines and the DOC appellation:
Trentino Wine – Wines of Trentino
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Did You Know?
The name « Vino Santo » (Holy Wine) is not due to a blessing, but to the production calendar. The pressing of the Nosiola grapes, after six months of drying, traditionally takes place during Holy Week (the week preceding Easter). This is the moment when climatic conditions are ideal for initiating the slow and complex fermentation that gives birth to this nectar.
The Sommelier’s Advice
Given the often venerable age of Vino Santo Trentino DOC, it is crucial to serve it at the right temperature to release its full aromatic complexity without masking its freshness. Serve it slightly chilled, between 12°C and 14°C. If you are tasting a bottle older than ten years, do not hesitate to gently decant it one hour before serving. This will allow the tertiary aromas, trapped by the long aging, to fully open up, offering a truly meditative tasting experience.
Conclusion
As the world celebrates Sherry Week, we turn our gaze toward Trentino, where Vino Santo embodies the same pursuit of excellence and patience. This wine, shaped by the Ora wind and time, is much more than just a sweet wine; it is a cultural heritage, a pure expression of the Nosiola grape and the alpine terroir. Tasting a Vino Santo means taking the time to savor history, an act of meditation that perfectly suits long winter evenings. It is proof that Italy, in its most alpine corners, holds treasures capable of rivaling the world’s greatest cellar-worthy wines.
Sources
https://www.slowfood.it/presidi-slow-food/vino-santo-trentino/